Preload wizard - what am I looking for?

[abecker]

I just finished my preload test from 0 - 1. Do I have any layers that are 'good'? It posted the picture sideways but the 0 side is on the right and 1 side is on the left.

[lonesock]

Could you please zip and post the G-code?

thanks,
Jonathan

[abecker]

PreloadTune1.gcode.zip

(70.97 KiB) Downloaded 335 times

[BoriSpider]

Seam on the side, what a novel idea. Probably easier to read than on the corner like mine.

[abecker]

I used the profile from the kisslicer weebly page for the D300VS and that is how it printed

[lonesock]

I just looked over your G-code. Your Drive Length is 78 mm, which is a nice tight direct drive. You won't really need the Preload functionality on your extruder for stiff materials like PLA (so I would just leave the PreloadVE value at the wizard default for PLA which is 0.75). The Preload function will be much more useful if you want print in TPU or, to a lesser extent, in materials like Nylon.

(I have a Bowden system where the my Drive Length is almost 10x yours at 730 mm, and I absolutely need Preload to print with clear NinjaFlex...because my custom printed Ping Pong paddles needed those clear rubber pads [8^)

thanks, and sorry for any confusion,
Jonathan

[Ronin]

I just looked over your G-code. Your Drive Length is 78 mm, which is a nice tight direct drive. You won't really need the Preload functionality on your extruder for stiff materials like PLA (so I would just leave the PreloadVE value at the wizard default for PLA which is 0.75). The Preload function will be much more useful if you want print in TPU or, to a lesser extent, in materials like Nylon.

(I have a Bowden system where the my Drive Length is almost 10x yours at 730 mm, and I absolutely need Preload to print with clear NinjaFlex...because my custom printed Ping Pong paddles needed those clear rubber pads [8^)

thanks, and sorry for any confusion,
Jonathan

I have rebuilt my printer and change bowden to direct drive extruder (titan). It's about 100mm from drive to nozzle. Do I need Preload functionality or it's better to turn it off? I print ABS, PLA, SBS, PET-G, HIPS

[hacker]

I am a KISS User for some time - and loving it. I must admit that the promise of the new battery of wizards is very promising and welcome, my problem is that, at this point in time, they are a bit ambiguous and unclear.
For starters,
• what is the right sequence of running the wizards
• what particular STL's are needed (I did notice some suggestions in the wizard, but it is not clear)
• What, in particular, are we looking for in every step of the wizards.

It would be great if there was, even a brief, document describing the workflow of the wizards. This way the full benefit of the great KISSlicer can be fully realized.

Thanks to everyone who participates in the development of this great slicer.

The order of wizards execution is basically the order of appearance in the dropdown since 1.6.1, the STL is described in the wizard and is available here: http://www.kisslicer.com/tuning-wizard-files.html, retraction is not there, but is described and can be easily created. Or found, I think someone once posted a link here somewhere.

We're looking for perfection!

[mhackney]

I'm working diligently on the next Tuning Wizards Tutorial Videos - it takes time to print, photograph and do all the background work for these.

Watch the first Tutorial on the page above, it sets the stage and gets you started. The Flow Rate Wiard REQUIRES that you have your extruder (e steps) calibrated, so I am doing that calibration video first and will release the two together.

Retraction is called "Destring" in KISS and there is a Wizard for it and I'll be posting the model for Destring when I do that tutorial.

[mhackney]

Thanks Altarke. I actually have the rest of the Wizard videos fleshed out but there is a little gotcha that I've been working to address and simplify. And that is extruder 2-step calibration. Without a calibrated extruder, it does not make sense to calibrate flow rate and preload (and even destring). FOr some reason, extruder calibration is a mystery to people so I've been working on a device that uses an <$10 caliper to accurately measure filament length for the purposes of extruder calibration. My Patreon supports get first access to the early version and are helping test and verify the design. It is basically complete now and I'm working on the tutorial on how to calibrate the extruder now. Once that is done and published, I can move full speed ahead on the remaining WIzard tutorials.

Cheers,
Michael