Brim For Prime Pillar

[inventabuild]

My dual extruder has knocked over the prime pillar on numerous occasions so naturally I would like to see a brim option for the prime pillar. No one's manual bed level or manual dual extruder height calibration is perfect...seems like one of my heads always ends up slightly tapping the build at one spot or another. Combine this with the low surface area contact of the prime pillar to the bed and it's too easy to knock it over with the lower of my two extruder heads; hence the reason for my request.

I need the prime pillar, but I prefer not to use it w/ out a brim because I've lost too many builds when it gets knocked over.

[PenskeGuy]

I'd really suggest shimming the lower extruder, so that they ARE both at the same dimension off the bed. It isn't only the Prime Pillar that is at risk. Surely, the print itself must be being impacted by the lower extruder. If not, then the Prime Pillar wouldn't be, either.

[inventabuild]

PenskeGuy,

The height on both extruders are calibrated as good as can be expected doing it manually. I even discussed this w/ the head tech service guy at Lulzbot.

My failed prints would have come out fine if the weakly attached prime pillar did not come loose.

My request for a small brim on the prime pillar still stands.

[PenskeGuy]

Geeez. Your request can still stand, fine. I was suggesting an alternative remedy that would cure the cause, not the symptom. I have never had a Prime Pillar Fall over... ever. The observation is that, well..., apparently a finer adjustment just might cure the problem all around and generally produce better prints overall. Or not. YMMV, and obviously does. Your call. I have access to some pretty fine shim stock; that apparently you do not, or don't want to take the time and effort to procure. Happy New Year.

[inventabuild]

Thanks, Happy New Year to you to.

[Pgregory]

I've found if the print heads are loaded with filament, I can't adjust the head height.
Remove the filament from all your heads. Just do a replace for each head.
Loosen the grub screw so the heads move freely up and down.
Extend all heads to maximum extension.
Raise the print bed until it meets the heads.
Raise manually by turning the Z axis rubber stopper until the heads are level.
Tighten the grub screws.
Manually lower the bed a bit.
The heads should be perfectly aligned.

[duaneh]

One trick I have used to get finer resolution on the printhead is to slip a sheet of paper under the head and adjust the Z position for a slight tug as I move the paper. Then adjust the second head until the amount of resistance is the same for both heads. I've found this is much more sensitive than shims or 'eyeballing' the gap.

[PenskeGuy]

One trick I have used to get finer resolution on the printhead is to slip a sheet of paper under the head and adjust the Z position for a slight tug as I move the paper. Then adjust the second head until the amount of resistance is the same for both heads. I've found this is much more sensitive than shims or 'eyeballing' the gap.

Yep. Feeler gauge is the way to go.

[inventabuild]

I really think the point is mute. People print brims to keep their parts stuck to the bed. If my part is sticking w/ a brim and my prime pillar is coming loose without a brim what is wrong with giving me a brim on my prime pillar?

[inventabuild]

Jonathan,

In Version 1.5 Beta 2 thank you for adding a squiggle-base to the prime pillar to help it adhere to the bed / raft. The prime pillar is staying down now even w/ my dual extruder.