Blobs after tuning

[localgost]

Hi everyone,

I've am Original Prusa i3 MK2 (lovin' it) and worked with Slic3r until now. I don't like the way of configuring Slic3r (who stores destring values in the printer settings!?) so I started to learn to KISS (pun intended). I ran all the wizards for my PLA and they are really a great help. However I still seem to miss something because I get a couple of blobs and a very visible and bad looking seam. Here is an example print I did yesterday:

Athough it's not the best shot the picture should speak for itself...
Here some of the settings I dialed in with the Tuning Wizard:

2017-11-19_15h19_33.png (38.1 KiB) Viewed 4002 times

2017-11-19_15h20_12.png (34.98 KiB) Viewed 4002 times

Extruder calibration is already done, too...

What can I do to improve my prints? I don't know if it's an issue with my filament since I have only dialed in this one. I'll start with another one (PETG) tonight, maybe this gives me better results.
I appreciate any ideas

[frozen.rabbit]

Jitter set to 360, looks like you are printing too hot, and you are under-extruding based on the looks of your top fill. Go beyond any tuning 'wizard' and manually tune your machine.

You are also printing with zero infill, and 2.5 loops is not a valid number for loops, only physically does whole number loops, not 50% of extrusion width.

Play with seam Gap and Depth settings, your blobs are where the perimeter starts, or ends. Blob can also be caused by using z-lift.

[localgost]

..., looks like you are printing too hot

Interesting, because that's what came out of the Temperature Tuning wizard... But okay, I'll give this another look!

You are also printing with zero infill, and 2.5 loops is not a valid number for loops, only physically does whole number loops, not 50% of extrusion width.

Thanks for the tip. So that means loops should only be integers? Are there any situations where loops can be a decimal number? If not, maybe KISS can be improved here to allow only integers...

Play with seam Gap and Depth settings, your blobs are where the perimeter starts, or ends. Blob can also be caused by using z-lift.

Most of them yes, some are also in the middle (not visible in the picture).

Thanks for your help frozen.rabbit. I'll check your tips and hope to get it dialed in...

Regards

Manu

[pjr]

Sorry, have to disagree with frozen.rabbit...

This printer with PLA needs 200 to 205 degrees, plus 215 for first layer.

Loops now do not have to be integer values; 2.5 produces 2 perimeters on one layer and 3 on the next which gives a much better infill binding.

Set Jitter to 360 degrees and do have a play with seam gap and depth.

Peter

[frozen.rabbit]

I have no faith in wizard setups, hence this print quality. The slew of China parts in all printers throws in a lot of variables and manufacturing discrepancies. I've been thru several reconfigs and re-works on my printer for the past 5 years. hotends, controllers, thermocouples, thermistors, I've seen plenty of false temp values, failing heater carts, failing temp probes. I've seen manufactured printers setting right next to each other with completely different configurations to each other, with the exact same components.

[pjr]

I have no faith in wizard setups, hence this print quality. The slew of China parts in all printers throws in a lot of variables and manufacturing discrepancies. I've been thru several reconfigs and re-works on my printer for the past 5 years. hotends, controllers, thermocouples, thermistors, I've seen plenty of false temp values, failing heater carts, failing temp probes. I've seen manufactured printers setting right next to each other with completely different configurations to each other, with the exact same components.

In the main I would agree with all that. Wizards are simply not a replacement for what visibly looks good.

And I have 2 PR i3 Mk2/S printers, both with MMU which require different retraction settings, despite being "the same".

Peter

[Dreide]

Loops now do not have to be integer values; 2.5 produces 2 perimeters on one layer and 3 on the next which gives a much better infill binding.

True, but if there is no infill (infill: hollow), the 3rd perimeter will be printed mostly on air, which is not very useful. So frozen.rabbit has a point there.

[localgost]

So,

I have played around with Seam Gap and Seam Depth. Tested all this with the KS Wizard Tuning Model and I only see very small differences when changing these values (Sorry, I don't have a picture at the moment). None of the values gives a satisfying result.

Yesterday I dialed in one of my PETG filaments and the test model (same as above) looks very clean and the seam is almost not visible.

I think I will rerun all the settings/tuning wizards to hopefully get the PLA dialed in, too....

Thanks again for all your help and ideas!