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Hi

I have made my minde, and wanna upgrade with a heated bed. The only plug & play solution is from GRM @ 800$ and 100$ shipping costs since im living in denmark.
So, im was thinking about making my own solution... I found a national re seller of reprap, and they suggested this solution:

Heatbed 300x300
http://reprap.me/pcb-heatbed300x300.html
incl glass, temperature controller, insulator and power supply.

Does any of you have any idea if this would function and be mountable?

Cheers

rantzaus wrote:Hi

I have made my minde, and wanna upgrade with a heated bed. The only plug & play solution is from GRM @ 800$ and 100$ shipping costs since im living in denmark.
So, im was thinking about making my own solution... I found a national re seller of reprap, and they suggested this solution:

Heatbed 300x300
http://reprap.me/pcb-heatbed300x300.html
incl glass, temperature controller, insulator and power supply.

Does any of you have any idea if this would function and be mountable?

Cheers

The only one who can answer is you, certainly it requires some adaptation work, if you know what you're doing, do it!

Hi,

Your BOM should work but only in manual mode. I mean it will not stop to heat when print will finish. To make an auto mode i will advise you to use an arduino with a relay to your pid connected to an end stop placed on the bottom of Z. When print is finish, your bed goes down and will hit the endstop and cut the power to your pid (and heatbed).
I planned to do this before switching motjerboard...
Good luck

Hugues wrote:Hi,

Your BOM should work but only in manual mode. I mean it will not stop to heat when print will finish. To make an auto mode i will advise you to use an arduino with a relay to your pid connected to an end stop placed on the bottom of Z. When print is finish, your bed goes down and will hit the endstop and cut the power to your pid (and heatbed).
I planned to do this before switching motjerboard...
Good luck

I think an Arduino is too much, with just a couple of relays will do the work. Isn't it?

Your right but you need to find the good pin to plug your relay, in case of multi extrusion you cannot plug it to the hot end but maybe to the mother board fan will work...

I roughly upgrade my Cubex DUO with a heat bed. I say roughly because it is half done, it works but does not look nice well i am still experimenting with it. Here's my rough schematic how it looks like. Yes now I can print ABS with less problem with warping, down fall of this heat bed upgrade for me is I have lost bed capacity.

I also have a normally closed switch that will open the circuit when printing is done to cool off the bed. I just placed it under the bed since the bed usually goes all the way down when done printing. The problem with this is that the bed will only go down when it finish printing but not when an error like for example filament failure and therefor the heat bed won't turn off. For now I am not doing any un attended printing with my set up.

If you look at the photo you will see how it was implemented and I know the thermal fused I put is a little or no help at all, I should attache it to the bed it self and will on my next revision.

It looks pretty good to mi.
If it works for you, it is a good improovment.
Thumbs Up

jaydie wrote:I roughly upgrade my Cubex DUO with a heat bed. I say roughly because it is half done, it works but does not look nice well i am still experimenting with it. Here's my rough schematic how it looks like. Yes now I can print ABS with less problem with warping, down fall of this heat bed upgrade for me is I have lost bed capacity.

You say you lossed bed capacity. As I know, its possible to to get a headbed that measures 300x300. That size should give you lot of bed capacity.

Yes there are bigger heat bed, to save money I planned to make one so I just bought the heating pad then cut a piece of glass. I will install this when I find time.