Re: Separate Prime and Suck Speeds
Posted: 09 Feb 2015, 02:14
Same model ("vampire skull-to-pus" from Thingiverse)
Same PLA (Prototype Supply translucent gold)
Top: Printed with 20mm/sec prime and retract, 3.0mm distance
Bottom: Printed with 20mm/sec prime and 50mm/sec retract, 3.25mm distance
Results: It printed noticeably better. There is still some blobbing, but it's less pronounced, AND the filament bears fewer stress lines. It's not as easy to see in the photo, but the top print (20mm/sec both) has a bunch of layers that reflect light from wider angles, suggesting that they didn't all flow with the same ease. This suggests to me that retracting at 50 and priming at 20 is better for the "thixotropic" effect than doing both at 20, which is puzzling. It could be that retracting it quicker makes the extruder spend less time with hot filament higher up, decreasing the heat soak effect.
I wasn't able to run 3.25mm retracts before, but I can now. Anything over 3.0 usually causes jamming after about 20 minutes, but the second print ran for several hours before Repetier screwed up. I'd have to say this change is a win, but I think there's still more that can be done about blobbing. There are a couple threads here about slowing down toward the end of a path, and beginning retraction just before the end of a path. I think those put together would probably take the blobbing down to such a low level that it isn't noticeable anymore.
Another thing that occurred to me: What if, when you're drawing a perimeter, instead of retracting right at path-end, you immediately deflect "inward" to the infill space, and THEN retract? At that point, if it oozes, it oozes inside the part, where it doesn't matter.
Same PLA (Prototype Supply translucent gold)
Top: Printed with 20mm/sec prime and retract, 3.0mm distance
Bottom: Printed with 20mm/sec prime and 50mm/sec retract, 3.25mm distance
Results: It printed noticeably better. There is still some blobbing, but it's less pronounced, AND the filament bears fewer stress lines. It's not as easy to see in the photo, but the top print (20mm/sec both) has a bunch of layers that reflect light from wider angles, suggesting that they didn't all flow with the same ease. This suggests to me that retracting at 50 and priming at 20 is better for the "thixotropic" effect than doing both at 20, which is puzzling. It could be that retracting it quicker makes the extruder spend less time with hot filament higher up, decreasing the heat soak effect.
I wasn't able to run 3.25mm retracts before, but I can now. Anything over 3.0 usually causes jamming after about 20 minutes, but the second print ran for several hours before Repetier screwed up. I'd have to say this change is a win, but I think there's still more that can be done about blobbing. There are a couple threads here about slowing down toward the end of a path, and beginning retraction just before the end of a path. I think those put together would probably take the blobbing down to such a low level that it isn't noticeable anymore.
Another thing that occurred to me: What if, when you're drawing a perimeter, instead of retracting right at path-end, you immediately deflect "inward" to the infill space, and THEN retract? At that point, if it oozes, it oozes inside the part, where it doesn't matter.